Saturday, July 27, 2013

Book Review: The Drunken Botanist

In The Drunken Botanist, Amy Stewart discusses the botany of booze. She begins with this disclaimer:
"The history of drinking is riddled with legends, distortions, half-truths, and outright lies. I didn't think any field of study could be more prone to myths and misstatements than botany, but that was before I started researching cocktails." 
I hoped this was a promise!

It was, and Stewart delivered. Part I explores the fermentation and distillation twin processes that produce wine, beer and spirits, organized by plant. I am always fascinated by the all the things that should never have been. Somehow, improbably circumstances, cases of mistaken identity, bravado and down right dumb mistakes aline to make it so. But isn't that always just the beauty of history?

Part II delves into the herbs, spices, flowers, trees, fruit, nuts and seeds that enhance our liqueurs and cocktails. Finally, Stewart shames me as she journeys into the garden  for the fresh botanical mixers and garnishes she highlights in Part III of the book. (Alright, alright, I'll replant those tomato starts which are still crammed together in one pot, which I have avoided out of guilt for the past week!)

In addition, included throughout the book are recipes for standard cocktails, as well as more obscure cocktails and twists on the classics that highlight specific botanicals. I am most excited to translate the Valencia cocktail, (1.5 ounces Rothman & Winter Orchard Apricot Liqueur  / .75 ounces freshly squeezed orange juice  / 4 dashes orange bitters  / orange peel), into a special pitcher of mimosas next time I host a brunch. Also on the list for a lazy summer day sometime soon, is Walker Percy's Mint Julep, (5 ounces bourbon  / several sprigs fresh spearmint  / 4 to 5 tablespoons superfine sugar  / crushed ice  / an entire day sitting on the front porch)!

The lesson I seem to be learning over and over again (first at the bitters class I took at the Pantry from my ultimate idol and girl crush Anna Wallace), is not to make snap judgements on botanicals for their flavor alone, but rather how well they pair with or enhance the main flavor profiles you are trying to develop. Despite my one and only unsuccessful attempt at homemade tonic - which clearly deserves much more attention at the base level - I am already inspired to start experimenting with pink peppercorn, cardamom, cascarilla, lemon verbena and eucalyptus for their individual merits of enhancing cichona bark, other bitter flavors or the citrus flavors I love about a good tonic.




Finally, I was left with a whole slew of additional reading recommended by Stewart. I am currently most exciting for:

The Savory Cocktail Book
Harry Craddock and Peter Dorelli

Artisanal Cocktails: Drinks Inspired by the Seasons from the Bar at Cyrus
Scott Beattie and Sara Remington 

Making Cordials and Liqueurs at Home
John Patrick Farrell

For a better-stocked kitchen: 

The Edible Front Yard: The Mow-Less, Grow-More Plan for a Beautiful, Bountiful Garden
Ivette Soler

The Kitchen Gardener's Handbook
Jennifer R. Bartley

The Complete Guide to Growing, Using, and Enjoying More Than 100 Herbs
Tammi Hartung

Cheers!

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