Book Review: The Drunken Botanist

In The Drunken Botanist, Amy Stewart discusses the botany of booze. She begins with this disclaimer:

"The history of drinking is riddled with legends, distortions, half-truths, and outright lies. I didn't think any field of study could be more prone to myths and misstatements than botany, but that was before I started researching cocktails." 

I hoped this was a promise!

It was, and Stewart delivered. Part I explores the fermentation and distillation twin processes that produce wine, beer and spirits, organized by plant. I am always fascinated by the all the things that should never have been. Somehow, improbably circumstances, cases of mistaken identity, bravado and down right dumb mistakes aline to make it so. But isn't that always just the beauty of history?

Part II delves into the herbs, spices, flowers, trees, fruit, nuts and seeds that enhance our liqueurs and cocktails. Finally, Stewart shames me as she journeys into the garden  for the fresh botanical mixers and garnishes she highlights in Part III of the book. (Alright, alright, I'll replant those tomato starts which are still crammed together in one pot, which I have avoided out of guilt for the past week!)

In addition, included throughout the book are recipes for standard cocktails, as well as more obscure cocktails and twists on the classics that highlight specific botanicals. I am most excited to translate the Valencia cocktail, (1.5 ounces Rothman & Winter Orchard Apricot Liqueur  / .75 ounces freshly squeezed orange juice  / 4 dashes orange bitters  / orange peel), into a special pitcher of mimosas next time I host a brunch. Also on the list for a lazy summer day sometime soon, is Walker Percy's Mint Julep, (5 ounces bourbon  / several sprigs fresh spearmint  / 4 to 5 tablespoons superfine sugar  / crushed ice  / an entire day sitting on the front porch)!

The lesson I seem to be learning over and over again (first at the bitters class I took at the Pantry from my ultimate idol and girl crush Anna Wallace), is not to make snap judgements on botanicals for their flavor alone, but rather how well they pair with or enhance the main flavor profiles you are trying to develop. Despite my one and only unsuccessful attempt at homemade tonic - which clearly deserves much more attention at the base level - I am already inspired to start experimenting with pink peppercorn, cardamom, cascarilla, lemon verbena and eucalyptus for their individual merits of enhancing cichona bark, other bitter flavors or the citrus flavors I love about a good tonic.

Finally, I was left with a whole slew of additional reading recommended by Stewart. I am currently most exciting for:

The Savory Cocktail Book
Harry Craddock and Peter Dorelli

Artisanal Cocktails: Drinks Inspired by the Seasons from the Bar at Cyrus
Scott Beattie and Sara Remington 

Making Cordials and Liqueurs at Home
John Patrick Farrell

For a better-stocked kitchen: 

The Edible Front Yard: The Mow-Less, Grow-More Plan for a Beautiful, Bountiful Garden
Ivette Soler

The Kitchen Gardener's Handbook
Jennifer R. Bartley

The Complete Guide to Growing, Using, and Enjoying More Than 100 Herbs
Tammi Hartung

Cheers!

boozy popsicles

Have you ever make homemade popsicles? The childhood treat is one of the most simple summertime delights, but with these recipes it also feels like one of the most indulgent. Below are two variations I tried.

cantaloupe and campari
I used this recipe combining cantaloupe and Campari, two flavors that remind me of sun-drenched afternoons in Italy. Just the type of afternoon I would want to evoke on a leisurely Sunday. I love the bitterness of Campari, so I used the full quarter cup called for in the recipe, though it recommends adding the liqueur in increments until you can just taste it. Sampling the mixture before pouring into the popsicles molds, at first I felt I had been too bold. However, once frozen the flavor mellowed out significantly. 

grapefruit, blueberry and gin
I got a little more adventurous with the second variation that I tried. Equipped with this handy how-to for making boozy popsicles, I combine some of the most quintessential warm-weather flavors. With all the nostalgia of lemonade, this twist on the classic summertime drink uses grapefruit instead of lemons. Blueberries perfectly compliment the tartness, while adding some texture to the popsicle. Of course, no gin cocktail would be complete without a lime garnish.

2 ruby red or pink grapefruit
1 lime
2/3 cup simple syrup
2 cups blueberries
1/3 cup gin

Juice two large ruby red or pink grapefruit, and one lime. If, like me, you are juicing by hand, make sure to strain the juice. Add two-thirds cups simply syrup. After either chopping two cups blueberries or pulsing them in a Cuisinart just until there are no whole berries remaining, add them to the mixture as well. Finally, add one-third cup gin. I used No. 209 Gin for it's light, citrus flavor. You will want to stir the mixture just before pouring into the popsicle molds to make sure that the blueberries are evenly distributed. Once in the molds, the berries will float near the top. I think this creates a lovely presentation. Recipes makes approximately eight popsicles.

red and blue berry sangria

Just in time for the Fourth of July, I thought I would share my favorite sangria recipe: red and blue berry sangria. I make no secret of my preference for red blends, but I will admit that they can feel heavy during the warmer summer months. (Did our current Seattle heat wave catch anyone else by surprise?) I love this particular sangria because it lightens up all the flavor profiles I love, and combines some unexpected flavors in the most refreshing way.

Now there is one catch. You will need to plan about half a day ahead so that there is ample time for my favorite bit: the boozy berries. I am a berry fiend, so I usually prepare a double batch of berries, just to save some one hand. They are delightful on their own or added to a glass of bubbly mineral water for a hint of flavor.

boozy berries for red and blue berry sangria

1/2 pint each strawberries, blueberries and raspberries

Vya Whisper Dry Vermouth, enough to cover the berries
zest of one lime

Wash and dry the berries. I love the way whole berries look in the glass, though I would slice strawberries lengthwise. You could also chop up all of the berries if you prefer. Combine berries with the lime zest before covering completely with vermouth. Whisper dry vermouth is just a touch sweeter than a dry vermouth, and goes well with the tartness of the blueberries and raspberries. This will take about 3/4 of a bottle. Do not be alarmed! After soaking the berries for up to 12 hours, drain and save the vermouth in an air tight container in the fridge for use at a later date. (Try mixing with soda water for a refreshing spritzer.)

Have you tried the berries yet? The best part about this recipe is that it assumes quite a few berries will be lost along the way. 

red and blue berry sangria

1 batch boozy berries

1 bottle red wine
4 oz. house gin 
soda water

lime wedges

Grab a pitcher and put in one batch of boozy berries. Pour over 4 oz. of gin. Whatever house gin you keep on your bar cart. (That's Bombay for me.) Finally, pour in the full bottle of wine. For the wine I would suggest a shiraz, or other variety that makes a good base for mixing. Your pitcher is probably already dangerously close to being filled to the tip top. Stir gently with a slotted spoon, leaving the spoon in the pitcher. To serve, fill a glass about half way full with ice. Spoon in the desired amount of berries, then pour in sangria to fill the glass about 2/3 of the way. Top with soda water. Garnish with a squeeze of lime, dropping the lime wedge into the sangria.

This recipe is also delightfully easy to make a glass at a time - without having to commit to a full pitcher - especially if you happen to have an open box of wine on hand, and boozy berries in the fridge. (This one is hands down my favorite. I don't joke about wine.) Throw some of the boozy berries in a glass, add a few ice cubes, 1/2 oz. of gin, and about half a serving of wine. Squeeze in a lime, top off with soda, and give 'er a swirl. 

the cherry on top

... or cranberries in this case, thanks to the excess number of bags I purchased for Thanksgiving that continue to sit perky in the fruit bowl next to the apple that went soft along with my healthy holiday resolutions.

Now, there are a lot of boozy bits I enjoy in my drinks, but frankly cranberries have not recently been one of them. I like to think I have come a long way since the vodka cranberries I would purchase from Crate&Barrel my freshman year of college. I would plop a few in my crantinis I mixed on top the mini fridge in my dorm room. Let's just say it took me some time to discover beer.

Back to the cranberries. One of my favorite bitters to enhance a glass of anything bubbly is Campari. I can't get enough of the bitter flavor! Soaking cranberries in a combination of Campari and vodka gives them a boozy punch with a distinctive flavor. Used as a garnish, the berries lend a tart brightness to the slightly sweet wine. Perfect for a New Years Eve toast! Not to mention the pop of red always looks so festive. 

Out with the old (cranberries), and in with the new (stay tuned). Happy New Year!

ingredients

1 bag fresh cranberries (12 oz.)
1/2 c. simple syrup
2 c. vodka
1/2 c. Campari

method

Thoroughly rinse cranberries, discarding any duds. Prick each cranberry with a sharp knife. Fill mason jars with cranberries leaving enough room so no one gets squished (1/2 inch or so). In bowl, combine simple syrup, vodka and Campari. Distribute liquid between jars of cranberries. Let sit in the fridge for at least 24 hours. Bonus: save liquid 

cocktail
Prosecco Campari - add a splash of Campari to glass of Prosecco or bubbly of choice, and garnish with  boozy cranberry bits. Enjoy!